Jam Crack - The Niall Grimes Climbing Podcast

Anita talks about some of the work she has been doing to encourage diverse groups into climbing.

Natalie Berry reads Gordon Smith’s classic accounts of winter ice climbing on Ben Nevis and big routes in the Alps, both stories drenched in 1970s drizzle and hunger.

Achtung: Legend! The quiet king of the quiet kingdom. Seldom has an area been so associated with one climber as Northumberland is with Bob Smith. From the late 1970s Bob championed style, commitment and technicality to produce climbs whose beauty and challenge have diminished little over the years.

Coach and climbing philosophy through lived experiences. This podcast won't make you stronger, but it might help you climb better and love it more. She's the boss.

In the 1990s she was at the top levels, redpointing 8b and flashing E7. Niall Grimes chats to Karin Magog about how she got there and what she's been doing since.

Trailblazing Irish climbers reads from her autobiography.

North Wales based climbing photographer, Ray Wood, sits down and thinks about life over a cup of tea.

Alex Megos talk to Niall Grimes about his new 9c, Bibliography, at Ceuse.

It's a bit sweary, sorry. I read out my own story of training obsession and blurred boundaries. Sorry.

Driving force of North Wales bouldering exploration, master of cutting edge trad, sport and bouldering. Pete Robins sits down and blows his own trumpet.

Bernadette McDonald reads about the most Extreme arena in all of climbing, 8000m peaks in Winter from her new book, Winter 8000. The episode centres around the efforts to rescue Elisabeth Revol and Tomasz Mackiewicz on Nanga Parbat.

Sam Whittaker, the biceps behind Sheffield's Climbing Works bouldering centre, yarns on about setting up the Works, why it's special and how it's handled lockdown. Plus a journey through his life.

Young North Wales based boulderer, trad climber, bassist and student Lewis Perrin Williams talks about some of the important stuff in his life.

Star of Hard Grit, classic 1990s climbing vid, chats to Niall Grimes in a darkening graveyard.

10-year-old and mad-for-climbing Rose tells Niall Grimes about climbing 8a, why she loves climbing outdoors, about Spain and plans to travel.

Young Lakes-based trad star Anna Taylor in conversation under a tree.

Peter Goulding reads extracts from his recently-published book Slatehead, which takes a personal look at the Llanberis slate climbing scene from the 1980s.

Paul Pritchard and George Smith read their farewells to their friend and 80's slate legend, Trevor Hodgson.

I spend an hour playing other people's music and try to take credit for it. Yay!

I ramble a few bits and pieces and tell a story about me n Brian Callen in Yosemite. And play some music.

Top adventure climber Nick Bullock recalls tales of loose rock, looser friends and the loosest ethics. Funny as hell!

Top UK all-rounder Hazel Findlay talks about being a professional climber, Tsunami, Magic Line, coaching, social media and podcasts.

Blind climber Jesse Dufton talks about his starring role in the award-winning documentary Climbing Blind, culminating in his on-sight lead of the Old Man of Hoy. Awesome.

Jim Pope, "The Last Climber", does well at Grit headgames, international comps and sport climbing. He wants to tick Extreme Rock and climb in the Himalayas. He's a dude. Niall Grimes chats to him.

A story about a day of great pain in Red Rocks and Las Vegas.

Ryan Pasquill loves doing 9a, flashing E9s, grit E8s, Font 8B, drinking beer and slagging James McHaffie. And he's a nicer guy than YOU. Hear his vibe.

The second part of my Emma Twyford interview. So fab. We talk about Once Upon a Time in the Southwest, Indian Face, Free Solo, The Big Issue and Big Bang. 

Emma Twyford is one of the UK's top climbers. Over the last year she has had an amazing run of achievements on top level sport and trad climbs. In this interview she chats with Niall Grimes about her journey on E8 and E9 trad climbs and 8c and 9a sport climbs.

We talk childhhod beginnings, school, Once Upon a Time in the Southwest (E9, Dyer's Lookout), Mind Control (8c, Olianna), Nightmayer (E8, Dinas Cromlech), not trying Indian Face (E9, Cloggy), The Big Issue (E9, Pembroke) and The Big Bang (9a, Pen Trwyn).

It's a long chat so I've split it in two. Part 2 to follow soon. 

Poet and novelist Helen Mort reads some of her work based in the universe of climbing including extracts from her recently-published novel, Black Car Burning, Well good.

Niall Grimes reads his own story - a trip to one of the world's most ancient climbing areas turns decidedly hairy

Second instalment of Paul Dunlop chat yarning on about Germany, Elbesandstein, ghosts, being good at climbing, youth and travelling.

Paul is my oldest friend and the person I started climbing with. This is the first of two interviews. Some incredible stories in here. Then he had to catch a train.

The Olympics are a-coming. Eddie Fowke has been on the scene for years, photographing the action and watching from the sidelines. He knows what's happening; I didn't. Eddie explains the whole shit show to me. Tune in, and you'll learn a lot.

Chris Schulte, major US bouldering prospector and arête crusher, is one of the defining spirits of Jam Crack. You'll know his voice from great story episodes. Niall Grimes finally catches him in person over a couple of daytime pints in Sheffield's Broadfield pub.

Niall Grimes reads his own story about a trip to Kalymnos where he gets to hang out with some famous climbers: Ben Moon, Yuji Hirayama, Alex Megos, Jibe Tribout, Boone Speed, and some famous climbers he hadn't heard of before.

Top climber, top guy, Japan’s Yuji Hirayama has pushed many of climbing’s boundaries in his day. An early master of comps in the 1990s, first on-sight of 8c, The Nose speed record, and still climbing at a high level today. Hear his vibe.

Angus Kille reads his account of climbing Indian Face, the UK's first E9, and one of the most feared leads in the UK.

Angus Kille reads his account of climbing Indian Face, the UK's first E9, and one of the most feared leads in the UK.

Hannah Baldwin is one of the three British paraclimbers to win gold at the World Championships in Innsbruck this year. In this chat we talk about about one-legged climbing, Crohn's disease, climbing hard, dreaming 8a and her relationship with her coach, Be Fuller.

He’s one half of the Beastmaker team, and one of the strongest climbers in the UK. Ned Feehally has added some of the country’s hardest problems, bouldered up to Font 8C, done well in comps and pushed the art of highball bouldering as far as it’s been pushed. Yet he remains backstage and keeps his climbing to himself. Let’s hear what this dark horse has to say.

Iranian-born Shirin reflects on early trips into her native mountains with her father, local mountaineering culture and how mountains returned in her later life to bring a new direction.

NOTE: AN EARLIER UPLOAD OF THIS EPISIDE WENT WRING SO NOW REUPLOADING

Iranian-born Shirin reflects on childhood exploits into her native mountains with her father, and how mountains returned to point the way in later life.

Britain's most prolific new router, most dedicated bolter and most obsessive Stranglers fan talks about life and near death.

These two are royalty  who have sailed the spaceship of trad climbing into outer space since the 1980s. Legends. We talk: Cloggy; Indian Face; morphic resonance; Gogarth; Nesscliffe.

These two are royalty  who have sailed the spaceship of trad climbing into outer space since the 1980s. Legends. We talk: Cloggy; Indian Face; morphic resonance; Gogarth; Nesscliffe.

Ben Sylvester reads Student of Sand about doing Ludwig, E6 6b, on Gogarth's Yellow Wall, and a poem about living in a van.

Irish bouldering pioneer and 8B+ crusher talks teenage climbing, training, partying, bouldering, mental aspects and sport climbing.

Andy Moles reads his own story about Fair Head.

Britain's most celebrated adventure mountaineer of the last decades talks about loose seacliffs, Scottish winter, the London scene, expeditions and cancer.

The godfather of Irish climbing yarns on about: Belfast, the Mournes, Fair Head, the Troubles, climbing equipment, the folk scene, ethics.

A dark tale of gritstone, of people doing the right thing for the right reasons.

Scottish-based crusher Natalie Berry gives her thoughts on the world of climbing as seen through the lens of her competition experience and role as something to do with UKClimbing, exactly what, I can’t remember.

American photographer Jim Herrington talks about getting the images for his book, The Climbers. Yarns about Ricardo Cassin, Warren Harding, Jeff Lowe and Dolly Parton.

Paul Pritchard reads the opening chapter from his classic book, The Totem Pole.

Top-flight boulderer and sport climber, 31-year-old MLC sit down to talk about projecting 9a, giving up comps and life as a pro climber.

Top UK adventurer, alpinist and rock climber Nick Bullocks reads a selection of passages from his new book, Tides. Nick's a gas.

Britain's best sport climber, Mister 9b, remembers the old school, looks at redpoint philosophy and what the future holds.

Gritstone master and pioneer of many of grit's finest Extremes died in a climbing accident last week. Niall Grimes remembers his experiences of some of JA's routes, and plays some music.

Lake District legend Dave Birkett sits down with a beer, a guitar and a packet of crisps and talks climbing, music and rounding up sheep.

I'm doing a set at a night called ElementOne, Club dB, Bangor, Gwynedd on 21 April. Here's a taster.

Andi Turner reads his own story, The Magic Flute.

Climber, coach and mum Katherine Schirrmacher sits down and chats about: chatting; The School; Broomgroove Wall; female climbing; freedom; the future.

Staffordshire local Andi Turner wags his chin with Niall Grimes about black dogs, fairies, stars, sandstone, Staffordshire Nose and many other things.

Crackanory. It’s a story episode. Maddy Cope reads her account of her ascent of El Capitan’s Freerider. Badass.

Mark Pretty has spent three decades at the heart of British climbing. Hear his tales of: Himalayan epics; Stoney woodshed; the 1970s;  the birth of sport climbing; the great climbers; the birth of sport climbing; coaching; Raven Tor; surviving.

A portrait of British mountaineer and rock climber, Andy Cave. This episode was produced by UK-based outdoor folm-makers, Hotaches Productions. That's what it sounds better than your usual Jam Crack Podcast.

London-based Molly Thompson Smith is one of the hot tickets on the competition circuit. Tune in to hear about her experiences, and lots more besides. 

Niall Grimes has a chat with Russian / Crimean climber, Yuri Kruglov, about life and climbing in Yuri's homeland. In this interview the interviewer reveals his lack of any real knowledge of Russia beyond its space ships and the odd battle in WW2.

The Boss. A conversation with John Allen who, as a teenager in the 1970s, revolutionised gritstone climbing with a near-endless string of first ascents of the finest routes.

Ruth Jenkins pushed British female standards in the 1990s, with ground-breaking ascents of 8a+ and 8b routes. Hear her recollations of the time as she sits down with her early climbing inspiration, Niall Grimes.

Niall Grimes reads his own account of Seb Grieve's ascent of Parthian Shot and his own short story, The Medium.

American climber, friend of the show, Chris Schulte reads Bernard Amy’s classic tale, The Greatest Climber in the world. Deep shit.

With a free ascent of El Capitan via the notorious Freerider, sport redpoints up to 8b, Maddy Cope is among the most accomplished all rounders in the land. Yet you don’t hear much about this young gun. Perhaps this young gun has a silencer fitted? Let's hear her story.

Liver of life Joe Healey lays down down the arc of his story so far.

The world famous Wideboyz, Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall, talk dodgy websites, wide cracks, cellar sessions, training plans and forgiveness.

Top 1980s sport climber, author of some of the hardest sport climbs anywhere at the time, recalls Lancashire, Malham, Sheffield, the Peak, France and Lycra.

Top Chamonix-based alpinist Andy Parkin, author of cutting edge climbs on the Alps and bigger mountains, talks about early art, big fights with skinheads, approaches to climbs, Nepal and climbing highpoints.

Scottish climbing legend Rab Carrington reads two stories: His own An Early Ascent of Raven Gully, about a winter ascent of the classic line on The Buchaille and Tom Patety’s A Short Walk with Whillans, in which the fondly-remembered Tom Patey recounts a typical attempt on The Eiger in the company of Don Whillans.

Multi-award-winning outdoor film maker Jen Randall discusses the creative process involved in making her films such as Operation Moffat, The Bothy Project and Project Mina, as well as her next venture, working with Andy Kirkpatrick on the film versuion of his autobiography, Psychovertical.

Alex Megos, the 23-year-old Übercrimpenkranker, and the first climber in the world to onsight 9a,  is coerced into a small art room at the Kendal Mountain Festival. Here he tells Niall Grimes loads of really important and interesting stuff.

Sheffield-based rock climber and alpinist, Ben Silvestre, reads Helmet Boiler, a story about a Gogarth choss-ride, and a poem, My Darker Self.

Lucy Creamer, one of the UK's greatest female climbers, gives the lowdown on her highlife. 

Niall Grimes reads his own story, And Then It Hit Me. Also Brick Edge Cruiser; competition.

John Redhead, author of many of the bigges, baddest leads of the 1980s talks to Niall Grimes about: septic tanks; sonic archaeology; Indian Face; North Stack Wall; Cloggy; The Bells; The Queen; Paul Williams.

NG talk to Australian climbing photographer Glenn Robbins who produced many iconic images in the 1980s and since. Topics include Arapiles; photography; arseless leather chaps; Wolfgang Gullich; Sheffield; Gogarth; Paul Pritchard; depression.

Niall Grimes chats with top British climber from the 1960s, 70s and beyond, Martin Boysen. Topics include: mental training World War 2; the Rock and Ice Club; Joe Brown; gritstone; sandstone; Clint Eastwood; Cerro Torre; development of gear; Trango Tower.

Niall Grimes reads his own story about a chance meeting with the late Dean Potter.

Alex Honnold, the world's most celebrated free soloist, sits down for a chinwag with Niall Grimes.

John Long reads The Only Blasphemy, his near-leethal encounter with the ropeless Najinski, John Bacher

Getting the lowdown on the highline, Niall Grimes talks to a group of highliners about their obscure activity.

In this episode Paul Pritchard reads his own story, Rubble Merchants, Slate Heads and Others from his book, Deep Play.

In this episode Niall Grimes has a chinwag with Irish / Belgian A-list, globe-trotting, seaboat-sailing, shanty-singing, rock-lubber, Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll. We talk about Patagonia, Greenland, Ireland, the Atlantic, sexual predators and hitch-hiking.

In this episode Dermot Somers reads his own short story, Dark Mourne.

In this episode Niall Grimes chats with the leading female climber of the 1980s, Catherine Destivelle, about childhood, the Verdon Gorge, competitions and late-night poker sessions.

Chris Schulte reads Chuck Pratt's legendary account of desert climbing exploration in the 1960s, The View From Dead Horse Point.

In this episode Niall Grimes interviews British climber Michaela Tracy about growing up through competitions, Word Cup experiences, training, health issues and the discovery of trad climbing.

In this episode Niall Grimes reads out one of his own stories, You've Been Popped. It concerns a day out on a wet gritstone crag, an awkward roof crack, a mysterious American climber and a huge cam.

In this episode Niall Grimes interviews US climber Tommy Caldwell about his childhood, early climbing, getting kidnapped in Kyrgyzstan and the Dawn Wall.

In this episode Niall Grimes reads out one of his own stories, The Dimmest Glimmer, set in a climbers' hut at the edge of Ireland's great, dark crag, Fair Head. Also music from www.dobdobdob.co.uk

In this episode Niall Grimes talks with Sheffield climber Chris 'Gus' Hudgins about early climbing, life in Sheffield, the Climbing Works and their notorious parties and about his own techno DJing.